Wine to 5: Mathieu Chadronnier, Bordeaux négociant
Mathieu Chadronnier is CEO of leading Bordeaux négociant CVBG. The company represents top-flight wine estates from Bordeaux and beyond, and provides access to a distribution network of 3,000 clients globally. Chadronnier pioneered the introduction of ‘Beyond Bordeaux’ wines to La Place de Bordeaux, placing CVBG at the forefront of this industry development.
What does a négociant do?
We buy wines from wine estates and distribute them globally, providing estates with a reach they could not achieve on their own. And we help our distributor clients access a far broader range of wines than would be possible if they had to go to each winery directly. In doing so, we bridge the gap between fine wine production and consumption, and we contribute to the diversity of styles, origins and stories fine wine consumers can access.
How did you get here?
My father was CEO of CVBG, but the plan was never for me to work with him. My interest was elsewhere: I wanted to work in tech. I found my first job at wineandco.com, a pioneer in the field. Although it was the tech aspect that attracted me, I quickly fell in love with wine. I was part of the buying team, tasting wines from all over Europe every day. It was a fascinating discovery, a true epiphany, and I owe my initial wine education to those days.
When I left, I was set on a career in wine. On my father’s suggestion, I worked a harvest as an intern at Château Mont-Pérat. Then the role of head of fine wine at CVBG became vacant and I was offered the job. That was 22 years ago. So much has changed. But even after so many years, I’m still amazed at how defining the earliest stages of my career have been.
What’s the best thing about your job?
You get to experience some of the greatest wines on Earth, building an extensive knowledge. You witness the birth of every vintage, travel to incredible places, meet extraordinary people. And you’re not just an observer; you’re a player in the game. Also, thanks to my wife, a winemaker who runs Château Marsau, our family estate, I have a foot in both worlds: production and distribution. This helps me better understand how much goes into crafting a bottle of fine wine.
And the worst part of your job?
When we fail to find a market for a wine we believe in, from a producer we are close to. It comes with the feeling of letting someone down.
What’s the most common misconception about your job?
One mistaken assumption is that our business is purely transactional, when in fact there’s so much more to it.
What’s your greatest moment, professionally?
Of the years past, what I’m most proud of is the team we have assembled. We have expanded quite a lot over time, and interestingly, as the team grew, its spirit became stronger and the values clearer. What we are today – our reputation for excellence in distribution, our understanding of wine, and more generally, our work ethic – it all comes down to this amazing team. And the sheer joy of working together, the shared belief that we are on a journey, on a mission, is the greatest reward of all.
And your greatest mistake?
I may have been too patient, too cautious, or too slow in realising the true value of what we were doing. Perhaps it’s my difficult relationship with self-satisfaction that comes into play here. But where others see how much we have achieved, I can’t help but see how much more we could have achieved.
What qualities do you need to be a successful négociant?
You need to love wine, because if you do not understand it profoundly, in the long run, you’re missing out. You also need to be open-and long term-minded. The landscape in which we operate is constantly changing and requires ongoing adaptation. And honest – honesty is the cornerstone of lasting relationships.
Your favourite Bordeaux vintage for drinking right now?
2016: undoubtedly the greatest vintage in its decade. It has been drinking magnificently for two or three years already, in spite of its youth. I also love this vintage because it so perfectly expresses the stylistic evolution of Bordeaux wines in more recent years – the region’s new coming of age.
Has interest in en primeur declined?
Just like the overall fine wine market, en primeur goes in cycles. Currently, demand is soft. We’ve been through this before. En primeur is a very strong system but it needs to be used well and should not be taken for granted. We must constantly adapt to evolving markets and consumer demands, and also to a new reality, which is that Bordeaux produces great vintages on a much more frequent basis than in the past. Providing we continue to adapt, en primeur still has a bright future.
Where in Bordeaux would you go for value in everyday drinking?
Castillon and Francs. Nestled on prime Right Bank clay and limestone terroirs, they offer a vibrant vigneron scene, and a different perspective on Bordeaux.