Installing a toilet may seem like a daunting task, but with the right tools, materials, and a bit of patience, it’s a home improvement project that you can certainly tackle on your own. Whether you’re replacing an old toilet or installing a new one in a new location, understanding the process can save you time and money.
This guide will walk you through the steps of installing a toilet, from prepping the area to connecting the water supply. By following these instructions carefully, you’ll be able to install a toilet efficiently and safely. Let’s get started on this DIY journey to enhance your bathroom and improve your home’s functionality.
Prep the Floor and Soil Pipe:
Stuff a rag into the soil pipe to block sewer gas and prevent hardware from falling in. Check that the hole in the floor is large enough to accommodate the closet flange up to its collar. If the hole needs to be enlarged, trace around the flange’s base with a pencil, then cut away the excess flooring with a jigsaw. Don’t cut any joists. Dry-fit the soil pipe into the closet bend.
Place the flange over the soil pipe, then measure the gap between the bottom of the flange’s collar and the finish floor. Remove the soil pipe and use a handsaw to trim it to the measurement in the previous step. Remove burrs by scraping the cut edge with a utility knife. Dry-fit the flange to the soil pipe, and the soil pipe to the closet bend to ensure the flange’s collar rests on the floor.
Install the Soil Pipe and Closet Flange:
Wipe PVC primer on the inside of the closet bend and on the outside of one end of the soil pipe. Apply PVC cement to those same surfaces and immediately twist the soil pipe into the closet bend. Prime and apply cement to the free end of the soil pipe and the inside of the closet flange.
Twist and press the flange onto the soil pipe until the collar is seated on the floor. Rotate the collar until its slots are positioned to the right and left of the hole. Secure the collar to the floor with stainless steel screws long enough to bite into the subfloor.
Solder the Stop Valve:
Shut off the bathroom’s water-supply valve. Place a bucket beneath the supply line, then sever the line with a tubing cutter. Leave about 1 inch of pipe to attach the stop valve and escutcheon. Allow the pipe to drain. Remove the valve’s handle and stem. Dry the pipe inside and out with a rag. Clean the inside and outside of the pipe and the inside of the valve’s inlet using a wire-brush pipe cleaner.
Apply flux to both areas. Slip the escutcheon over the supply line, followed by the stop valve; the valve’s outlet should point upward. Heat the supply line stop valve joint with a propane torch. Once the joint is hot enough to melt the solder, remove the flame and run the solder around the joint. When a drop of solder appears at the bottom, the joint is filled.
Install Toilet Wax Ring, Set the Bowl:
Insert the long brass closet bolts, threaded-end up, into the flange collar’s slots. Slip a brass washer over each. Gently press the wax ring, flat-side down, over the flange. Lift the toilet bowl over the flange, align the holes in its base with the closet bolts, and lower the base onto the ring. Without twisting or rocking, press the bowl down onto the wax ring until the bowl’s base rests on the floor.
If the floor is uneven, shim the bowl with stainless steel washers. Slip a nylon washer over each bolt, then hand-thread the nuts. Tighten the nuts with a wrench one quarter turn at a time, alternating between the two. Stop when the wrench meets firm resistance; overtightening will crack the bowl. With a hacksaw, trim the closet bolts at a point two threads above the top of the nut. Snap the plastic bolt covers into place.
Install the Tank:
Make sure the large-diameter rubber tank-to-bowl (or spud) washer on the outside of the tank’s bottom is firmly seated. Fit the small-diameter rubber tank washersinto the small tank holes from the inside of the tank, then insert the tank bolts. Gently lower the tank onto the back of the bowl, guiding the ends of the tank bolts into the holes. Slip a nylon washer onto each bolt, then hand-thread the nuts.
Holding each bolt head in place with a screwdriver, hand-tighten the nuts, alternating from nut to nut and checking repeatedly to make sure the tank is level. Overtightening will crack the porcelain. Connect the tank’s handle to the flapper chain.
Install the Supply Line and Seat Assembly:
Using a tubing bender, curve the supply line to fit between the stop-valve outlet and the tank-supply fitting. Then hold the pipe, flared-end-up, between these two points and mark it half an inch below the outlet. This will leave enough line to sit inside the outlet. Cut the supply line at the mark made above, using a tubing cutter. Slip the plastic nut, compression nut, and compression ring (in that order) onto the supply line.
Add a thin coat of Teflon paste to the valve’s outlet threads, then seat the line in the outlet, and fit the compression ring. Hand-tighten the supply line’s plastic nut under the tank. Then tighten the compression nut with a wrench.
Finishing Touches:
Position the seat assembly over the bowl, then insert the plastic bolts through the seat back and the bowl’s seat holes; tighten the nuts by hand. Turn on the main supply line, open the stop valve, and allow the tank to fill. Flush six times. The final step to installing a toilet is to check for leaks.
Remember to always check for leaks after installation and to follow all safety precautions when handling tools and heavy objects.
Step-by-step Guide
- Measure the distance from the wall to the toilet floor bolts: This is to ensure that the new toilet will fit in the space of the old one.
- Turn off the water at the supply valve: This is to prevent water from flowing while you’re working.
- Set the lid aside and flush the toilet to drain the basin and the bowl: This will remove as much water as possible from the toilet.
- Put on gloves and remove the rest of the water: Use a large sponge to absorb the remaining water in the tank and the bowl.
- Remove the water supply line from the wall and tank: Use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the nuts and pull away the water supply line.
- Unscrew the tank bolts that fasten the basin to the bowl: This will allow you to remove the toilet from the floor.
- Lift the toilet up and away from the floor: Be careful to lift with your legs and keep your back straight to avoid injury.
- Pry away the wax seal from the toilet flange: Use a putty knife to scrape away the wax residue and debris.
- Plug the drain opening with an old rag or cloth: This will prevent sewage fumes from entering your bathroom and block tools from falling into the hole.
- Replace the toilet bolts on the flange: New toilets usually come with a new set of toilet bolts.
- Fit a new wax ring around the flange: This will create a seal for the new toilet.
- Center the toilet base over the toilet bolts on the floor: Press down and rock the toilet back and forth to seal it to the wax ring.
- Tighten the toilet bolts on the base: Use a wrench to tighten the bolts, applying even pressure to keep the toilet level.
- Cut the excess length from the bolts and pop on decorative caps: Use a hacksaw to cut off the excess bolt length and then cover the bolts with decorative caps.
- Place the gasket on the tank and push the tank bolts through the holes: This will prepare the tank for attachment to the bowl.
- Set the tank onto the toilet bowl and screw it in place: Make sure the bolts slide into the holes on the back of the toilet bowl.
- Install a new water supply line and connect it to the toilet tank: Tighten both ends with a wrench until the connections are snug.
- Turn on the water supply valve and flush the toilet: Check for leaks around the base and near the water supply line.
- Caulk around the front of the toilet only if there is a visible gap: This will create a seal between the toilet and the floor.
Remember to always check for leaks after installation and to follow all safety precautions when handling tools and heavy objects.