Are you dreaming of a lush, draping houseplant that’s also easy to care for? 3 Devil’s Ivy (Pothos) The Pothos (Epipremnum aureum), also known as Devil’s Ivy, is your ideal choice! However, even these renowned low-maintenance plants can occasionally leave you perplexed.
Are you seeing yellow leaves? Is it not growing as fast as you are hoping for? Or are you a newbie trying to prevent making common errors? This is your ultimate guide for all things Pothos. So rather than just some simple do’s and don’ts, we’ll share practical advice and expert ease for growing this beautiful plant you’ll want to show off.
The Perfect Houseplant for Beginners—Why Pothos?
There is a reason (or several!) pothos are so beloved. They are surprisingly versatile, adaptable, and forgiving—ideal for novices and seasoned gardeners alike. Here’s why they’re so hot:
Easy Care: They can survive in a wide variety of conditions and are virtually impossible to kill (but of course we’re going to teach you how to help them thrive, not just survive!).
Air purifying: Pothos are also purifiers, filtering indoor air pollutants (although similar to snake plants, the real-world impact is a subject of debate, but it’s a nice potential bonus).
Design Feature: Their trailing vines and heart-shaped leaves add a touch of lush greenery to any space. They can be cultivated in hanging baskets, on shelves, or even trained to climb.
Easy Propagation: Pothos can be propagated easily from cuttings.
Different Colors and Patterns: From the classic Golden Pothos to the eye-catching Marble Queen and Neon Pothos, there is a type for everyone.
Light Needs: Decoding the Pothos Preferences
Pothos will survive in the dark, but they won’t thrive. Knowing their light preferences is essential for vibrant growth.
The presence of bright, indirect light creates a delightful atmosphere! Sit near an east-facing window, or a few feet in front of a south- or west-facing window. It must be bright enough to cast the shadow but not so intense that a direct sun ray shines on the leaves.
Low Light: While pothos can tolerate low light conditions, they will grow more slowly, the leaves will be smaller, and variegation (the patterns that are on the leaves) will be lost.
Direct Sunlight: Don’t keep your coffee table in direct sunlight for hours on end, especially during the hottest time of day. That can burn the leaves, creating brown splotches and crispy edges.
Expert Tip: If your Pothos is becoming leggy (stems that are long with sparse leaves), it’s probably not getting enough light. You could try relocating it to a sunnier spot.
Watering your pothos — Avert the soggy soil trap
As with snake plants, overwatering is the most common mistake for pothos! They like to dry out some between waterings.
The Finger Test is a reliable method. Insert your finger an inch or two inside the soil. If it seems dry, then it’s time to water. If it’s still a bit damp, give it a few more days.
How Often to Water: This will vary based on temperature, humidity, pot size, and season. In general, you will probably water every 1-2 weeks during spring and summer and less often (every 2-3 weeks or more) in the fall and winter.
How to Water: Water deeply until you see water coming out the bottom of the pot. It is important to always drain any excess water from the saucer or cachepot, as the plant can suffer from root rot.
Important Note: Yellowing leaves can be a sign of overwatering, and wilting leaves can hint at underwatering (or, confusingly, overwatering so bad that root rot has set in!). Monitor closely how your plant communicates its watering needs and respond in kind.
Soil and Potting — The Foundation of Success
Pothos require the right soil and pot to thrive.
Well-Draining Potting Mix: A standard well-draining potting mix is generally fine. You can also mix in some perlite or orchid bark to help promote even better drainage. Avoid heavy garden soil, which holds too much moisture.
Pot Size Depending on the size of your plant, select a pot not much bigger than the root ball. Pothos aren’t particular about being a bit root-bound. A pot that’s too big can hold too much water, which can lead to root rot.
Draining Holes: A must-have! Ensure that your pot has drainage holes so that excess water can escape.
Pot Material. Uncoated ceramic pots, such as terracotta, are excellent.
Temperature and Humidity: A Comfortable Atmosphere
Pothos have a lot of tolerance for average indoor temperatures and humidity.
Temperature: Prefers temperatures between 60° F and 85° F (15° C – 29° C) Keep them away from drafts or cold windows in the winter months.
However, they do prefer higher humidity but can survive at average room humidity. In a particularly dry climate, you can boost humidity by clustering plants, using a pebble tray, or using a humidifier.
Feed Your Pothos with Care
Pothos are not heavy feeders and do not need to be fertilized often.
When to Fertilize: Fertilize during the actively growing season (spring and summer).
What to Use: Balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength.
Fertilizing Frequency: Every 2-3 months the growing season Do not fertilize in the fall and winter.
(H2: Pothos Pruning and Shaping: How to keep a Well-Mannered Plant)
While not essential, pruning can also help keep your Pothos bushy and well-shaped.
When to Prune: You can prune your Pothos at any time of year, but spring and summer are especially good for this.
How to prune: Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears. Make the cut just above a leaf node (the point where a leaf meets the stem). That should prompt fresh growth.
What to Prune: It is okay to prune to remove leggy stems or yellowing leaves, or to maintain the overall size and shape of your plant. So you can propagate new plants from the cuttings!
Propagation: How to Multiply Your Pothos (It’s So Easy!)
Pothos propagation from stem cuttings is surprisingly easy. It’s a perfect way to propagate new plants, fill a sparse pot, or give a friend a share.
Tip 1: Take a Cutting — Cut a stem (a piece of the plant) that is at least 4–6 inches in length and contains a few leaves Cut just above leaf node.
Remove Bottom Leaves: Strip the leaves from the bottom 1 to 2 inches of the cutting.
Root in Water or Soil:
Water: Put the cutting in a glass or jar of water, ensuring the nodes (the points where you removed the leaves) are underwater. Replace water every few days. Within the next several weeks—a few weeks—you should begin to see roots.
Soil: You may also place the cutting directly into moist potting mix. Keep the soil moist (not soggy) until roots appear.
Common pothos problems and solutions
Even with the best of care, things might go wrong. Here’s how to troubleshoot:
Yellowing Leaves: Typically, this is a sign of overwatering. Make sure to check the soil moisture and amend your watering schedule. May be due to nutrient deficiency (rare).
Leaves Turn Brown on the Edges: Dry air, underwatering, or a buildup of salts from tap water. Try raising humidity, testing soil moisture more frequently, or using filtered water.
Spindly Growth: Means too little light. Relocate your pothos into a brighter spot.
Leaves drooping: Sign of underwatering or overwatering (root rot). Inspect the soil moisture closely to figure out the culprit.
Pests: Pothos have few pests but can sometimes be affected by mealybugs, spider mites, or scale. Use an insecticidal soap or neem oil to treat infestations.
Popular Types of Pothos: A Diverse Choice
There is a wide selection of beautiful Pothos varieties available to choose from, each with their own characteristics:
The Golden Pothos, also known as Epipremnum aureum, is a beloved plant. Variegated golden-yellow with green leaves.
Marble Queen Pothos: Green leaves heavily marbled white or cream.
Neon Pothos: Bright chartreuse yellow leaves.
Jade Pothos: Deep green leaves.
Satin Pothos (Scindapsus pictus): A different genus technically, but similar enough that they are often lumped in with Pothos when you look up care instructions. Silvery, velvety leaves.
Manjula Pothos: Manjula pothos is a patented pothos variety; therefore, it cannot be propagated without explicit permission from the patent holder—legality aside, it doesn’t propagate itself.
Njoy Pothos
Closing
The Pothos is such a rewarding houseplant, providing lush beauty and air-purifying properties with little hassle. These care principles will help you get started with growing a robust pothos, which will brighten your home for ages.
Now it’s your turn! Got any Pothos care tips to share?” Or do you have a specific issue with your Pothos? Ask your questions and share your experiences in the comments! Let’s build a Pothos community! And for more expert standing houseplant tips, sign up for our newsletter!
Commonly Asked Questions (FAQs) About Pothos Care
Got questions for managing your Pothos? We’ve got answers! Below, expert advice on some of the most frequently asked questions we get:
1: How often do I need to water my Pothos?
Water Pothos once the top inch or two of soil is dry to the touch. Typically this translates into watering once every 1-2 weeks in spring/summer and 2-3+ weeks in fall/winter. Overwatering, a frequent source of problems, can usually be avoided.
2: What type of light does a Pothos require?
Pothos prefers bright, indirect light. They can handle low light, but growth will slow and variegation may fade. Do not leave it on direct sunlight for long periods, because it can burn the leaves.
3: What kind of soil is best for Pothos?
You need a potting mix that drains well. A basic houseplant mix is typically fine, but you can also add perlite or orchid bark to enhance drainage even more.
4: Does Pothos require fertilizing?
Will Pothos need fertilizing for the winter? During the growing season (spring/summer) fertilize moderately with a balanced water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength. Do not fertilize in fall/winter.
5: What are the different methods for propagating Pothos?
I have many pothos plants, and they grow so fast that I am a bit overwhelmed. Just cut a stem with several leaves, strip off the bottom leaves, and stick the cutting in water or directly in moist potting mix.
6: My Pothos Leaves Are Turning Yellow?
Yellowing leaves most commonly indicate overwatering. Assess the moisture level of soil and adapt your watering schedule. Less often it can signal a deficiency in a nutrient.
7: My Pothos has brown leaves tips What’s causing this?
Brown tips on leaves can be caused by dry air, underwatering, or salinity from tap water build-up. Try incrementally increasing humidity, monitoring the soil more carefully or using filtered water;
8: Are Pothos plants safe for pets?
Yes, Pothos are poisonous to cats and dogs if eaten. Foliage is high in calcium oxalates, which can lead to irritation and discomfort. Store them out of reach of pets.
9: What are the best secrets to making my Pothos fuller?
Regular pruning promotes bushier growth. Trim any long, leggy stems back slightly above a leaf node. You can propagate the cuttings further, creating new plants and adding them back to the original pot.
10: How do Golden Pothos and Marble Queen Pothos differ?
Golden Pothos leaves are green with golden yellow splashes. Marble Queen Pothos features green leaves splattered with white or cream. They require similar care.
